Whitesands to Porthgain: Walking the Beautiful Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Volcanic headlands, striking turquoise ocean, a deep blue lagoon, rugged limestone cliffs, miles of golden sands, endless rolling countryside and Neolithic ruins. Continue reading our guide to one of the best Pembrokeshire Coastal Path Walks; Whitesands to Porthgain!
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Home to some of the UK’s most stunning scenery, Pembrokeshire is perfect to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life and get back to nature.

There are many amazing things to do in Pembrokeshire with one being walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path was opened in 1970 and was the first national trail in Wales. It runs from Amroth in the south to Saint Dogmaels in the north for 299 kilometres. It makes up part of the Wales Coast Path which spans around Wales for 1400 kilometres.

Piercing blue waters lapping at craggy limestone cliffs from Whitesands to Porthgain on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Wales
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is absolutely breathtaking
Andy walking along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Whitesands to Porthgain, next to the turquoise ocean, Wales
Pembrokeshire has some of the UK's most stunning coastal scenery!

Lonely Planet has described the Coastal Path Pembrokeshire as one of the best long-distance trails in the world and we can totally see why; it’s absolutely gorgeous!

Azure waters that look like they belong in the Mediterranean lapping at miles of golden sands, steep limestone cliffs, rolling red sandstone bays, volcanic headlands and flooded glacial valleys litter the landscape.

Volcanic rocks on and golden sand on Traeth Llyfn Beach, Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, Wales
You'll spot lots of volcanic rocks along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

There are also many coastal flowers, bird life and evidence of human life dating back to Neolithic times.

Neolithic ruins on the rolling countryside of the Coast Path Pembrokeshire, Wales
Neolithic ruins were a surprise on our Whitesands to Porthgain Walk

Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in one go would take between 10 and 15 days and one day we hope to do just that!

However, you can enjoy many shorter walks dotted along the coast, ranging from short strolls to full-day hikes. In this guide, we’ll share with you the Whitesands to Porthgain Walk; an adventurous, full-day 16-kilometre walk.

We’ll also share everything you need to know including how to get around as this is a point-to-point hike, how long the hike is, the best time to visit and places to eat.

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A pin on a guide to Whitesands to Porthgain with an images of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Wales
A pin on a guide to Whitesands to Porthgain with an image

Whitesands to Porthgain Walk

It’s very tricky to get lost as you walk from Whitesands to Porthgain along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path in one direction. However, if in doubt, follow the acorns on the signposts.

Starting at the cafe at Whitesands Bay, head north along the coastal path. Turn back now and again, for amazing views over Whitesands and the craggy cliffs in the distance.

Striking turquoise water lapping at the golden sands of Whitesands Bay, Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Wales
Look back as to Whitesands Bay as you make your way along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

This section, between Whitesands and Abereiddy, feels quite remote and rugged. We only saw a handful of people which, given we were there in the height of the summer, was very surprising! It felt incredibly peaceful.

Andy and Plum on the rugged and deserted Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Whitesands to Porthgain, Wales
Whitesands to Abereiddy feels quite remote and rugged

If you have time, there’s a bit of a detour up Cairn Llidi rewarding you with stunning 360-degree views along the coast in both directions. Here, you’ll also find Coetan Arthur; the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber.

Continue along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, passing above secluded bays and striking turquoise water. Gaze out across the island-strewn landscape and spot yachts riding the calm waters in the distance.

Turquoise ocean lapping at the craggy limestone rocks along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path from Whitesands to Portgain, Wales
You'll be rewarded with views like this the whole way
A yacht in the distance on the calm turquoise ocean on the Coastal Path Pembrokeshire, Wales
The scenery in Pembrokeshire is so calming

If you’re lucky, you may even spot some seals in the rocky coves below!

After a couple of hours walking along the tops of convoluted cliffs, past rolling green countryside you’ll reach Abereiddy Bay; a perfect spot for lunch when walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

The striking turquoise Abereiddy Bay from Whitesands to Porthgain, Coast Path Pembrokeshire, Wales
Abereiddy Bay is perfect for some lunch

On the far side of the pebbly beach is the Blue Lagoon; a former slate quarry with piercing blue-green water and one of the most beautiful places in Pembrokeshire.

The piercing emerald Blue Lagoon with vast turquoise ocean behind, Abereiddy, Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
The Blue Lagoon is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Pembrokeshire

Stop at the Blue Lagoon for a dip or book a coasteering tour if you’re feeling adventurous and spend a couple of hours clambering over the rocks and jumping from the cliffs into the deep blue water.

Continuing on from Abereiddy, the landscape changes somewhat and opens up into a vast expanse with Traeth Llyfn Beach in the distance.

View towards Traeth Llyfn Beach, last stop on our Whitesands to Porthgain walk, Pembrokeshire, Wales
Traeth Llyfn Beach is the last stop before Porthgain

Here, the crowds pick up as the Abereiddy to Porthgain Walk is very popular. It’s a short, fairly flat stroll to the Blue Lagoon and people can leave their vehicles in Porthgain and hike there and back rather than figuring out how to get back to their car on a point-to-point hike.

You’ll soon reach the small coastal hamlet Porthgain, once a small commercial harbour used for exporting stone from the nearby quarry.

The picturesque coastal hamlet of Porthgain with boats in the harbour while the tide is out, Pembrokeshire, Wales
The picturesque Porthgain

Our Top Tip: stop at The Shed for some first-class Fish and Chips but make sure you book as it gets booked up weeks in advance!

Alternatively, if pub grub and a well-deserved pint are what you’re after, head to The Sloop Inn. Food stops at 3pm.

Booking.com

Everything Else You Need to Know to Walk From Whitesands to Porthgain

How do I get around the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Walks?

This is the fun part!

We’d recommend driving to get around Pembrokeshire in general. There’s the Coastal Bus Service, however, buses are few and far between. So, if you rely solely on these, there’ll be a lot of planning, very little room for flexibility and a lot of waiting around.

For the Whitesands to Portgain Walk, we parked in St Davids and took the first Celtic Coaster Bus to Whitesands. From Porthgain, we took the last Strumble Shuttle Bus back to St Davids.

You may find there’s a bit of waiting around in Porthgain as there are only 3 buses a day to St Davids. Timetables change so check the times online so you can plan accordingly.

How long is the walk from Whitesands to Porthgain?

The walk from Whitesands to Porthgain is 16 kilometres and took us around 6.5 hours with plenty of stops for photos, food and a swim in the sea at Abereiddy. The difficulty is intermediate, mainly due to the length. It’s not very steep.
 

Is there anywhere to eat en route?

Take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks and water as your options are limited and unpredictable. 

You’ll start at the cafe in Whitesands (opens at 10:30 however) and next is Abereiddy where you may find a food truck of sorts. However, we’re not sure if this is here constantly or just at peak time.

After Abereiddy, the next place for food is Porthgain.

The best time for Pembrokeshire Coast Path Walks

The best time for walks along the Coast Path Pembrokeshire are May – June and September. July – August will see large crowds (although we found Whitesands to Abereiddy pretty quiet in August) and inflated prices.

We hope you’ve enjoyed our walk from Whitesands to Porthgain along the beautiful Pembrokeshire Coast Path. If you have any other questions or want to get in touch, please leave us a comment. Also, make sure you’re following us on Instagram to stay up to date with us in real-time.

To read our other Pembrokeshire guides, head to the posts below.

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