Whitesands to Porthgain Walk: Full 2026 Hiking Guide
Volcanic headlands, striking turquoise ocean, a deep blue lagoon, rugged limestone cliffs, miles of golden sands, endless rolling countryside and Neolithic ruins. Here’s everything you need to know about hiking from Whitesands to Porthgain; one of the best hikes in Pembrokeshire.
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Home to some of the UK’s most stunning scenery, Pembrokeshire is perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of daily life and spending time outdoors.
There are so many fun things to do in Pembrokeshire, with one being walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path was opened in 1970 and was the first national trail in Wales. It runs from Amroth in the south to Saint Dogmaels in the north, spanning 299 kilometres. It’s part of the Wales Coast Path, which runs around Wales for 1400 kilometres.
Lonely Planet has described the Pembrokeshire Coast Path as one of the best long-distance trails in the world, and you can totally see why; it’s absolutely gorgeous!
Azure waters that look like they belong in the Mediterranean lapping at miles of golden sands, steep limestone cliffs, rolling red sandstone bays, volcanic headlands and flooded glacial valleys litter the landscape.
There are also many coastal flowers, birds and evidence of human life dating back to Neolithic times.
Hiking in Pembrokeshire is one of the best ways to experience these diverse landscapes. While we hope to complete the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path in one go at some point, it would take between 10 and 15 days, and we didn’t have that long on our trip.
Fortunately, there are many shorter Pembrokeshire Coast Path walks, ranging from easy strolls to full-day hikes. One of the best hikes in Pembrokeshire is the 16-kilometre Whitesands to Porthgain Walk.
This guide tells you everything you need to know, including how to get around as this is a point-to-point hike, the best time to visit, where to stay, places to eat and more.
Contents
Whitesands to Porthgain at a Glance
- 📍Start/End: Whitesands Bay to Porthgain
- 🥾 Distance: 16 kilometres
- 📊 Difficulty: Intermediate - a few up and downs but mostly flat
- 🚌 Getting back: Bus as it's a point-to-point hike
- ☀️ Best time to visit Pembrokeshire: Late spring-early autumn
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Whitesands to Porthgain Walk
Below is a map of the hiking route from Whitesands through Abereiddy to Porthgain.
Starting at the cafe at Whitesands Bay, head north along the coastal path. It’s very hard to get lost as you’re walking in one direction; however, if in doubt, follow the acorns on the signposts.
As you walk along the trail, turn back now and again for great views over Whitesands Bay and the rolling countryside that just keeps on going.
The section between Whitesands and Abereiddy feels very remote and rugged. We only saw a handful of people, which, given we were there in the height of the summer, was very surprising!
If you have time, there’s a slight detour up Carn Llidi with 360-degree views along the coast in both directions. Here, you’ll also find Coetan Arthur; the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber dating back to around 3000 BC.
Continue along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, passing above secluded bays and striking turquoise water. Gaze out across the island-strewn landscape and see yachts riding the calm waters in the distance.
If you’re lucky, you may even spot some seals in the rocky coves below!
It’s around 12 kilometres from Whitesands Bay to Abereiddy Bay along the tops of jagged cliffs and through rolling green countryside. This pebbly beach is a great stop for lunch.
On the far side of Abereiddy Bay is the Blue Lagoon, a former slate quarry with piercing blue-green water and one of the most beautiful places in Pembrokeshire.
Stop here for a dip or, if you’re feeling adventurous, a really fun activity you can do is coasteering, where you clamber over the rocks and jump into the water from the cliffs.
Continuing on from Abereiddy, the landscape changes quite drastically and opens up into a vast expanse with Traeth Llyfn Beach in the distance.
Here, the crowds pick up as the Abereiddy to Porthgain Walk is very popular. People park in Porthgain, walk the 3 kilometres to Abereiddy, spend the day there and then walk back.
Porthgain is around 1.6 kilometres from Traeth Llyfn Beach. This small coastal hamlet was once a commercial harbour used for exporting stone from the nearby quarry.
Our Top Tip: head to The Shed for some first-class Fish and Chips, but make sure you book as it gets booked up weeks in advance.
Alternatively, if you’d prefer traditional pub grub and a well-deserved pint, check out The Sloop Inn. Food stops between 3pm and 5pm.
That rounds off the Whitesands to Porthgain hike; now we’ll share everything else you need to know.
Everything You Need to Know For the Whitesands to Porthgain Walk
How do I get around the Pembrokeshire Coast Path Walks?
Driving is the easiest way to get around the Pembrokeshire Coast Path walks in general, as this gives you complete freedom and flexibility. However, as this is a point-to-point hike, it requires some logistical planning.
You’ll need to use the Coastal Bus Service, and as buses go in and out of major towns and cities, we’d recommend using St Davids as your base. Park here and take the Celtic Coaster Bus to Whitesands to start the hike. From Porthgain, you can take the Strumble Shuttle back to St Davids.
You may find there’s a bit of waiting around in Porthgain as there are only 3 buses a day to St Davids. Timetables can change, so check the times online and plan accordingly.
How long is the Whitesands to Porthgain Walk?
16 kilometres. It took us around 6.5 hours with plenty of stops for photos, food and a sea swim at Abereiddy.
How difficult is the Whitesands to Porthgain Walk?
It’s an intermediate hike, mainly due to length. It’s fairly flat with a few ups and downs.
Is there anywhere to eat along the route?
Take a packed lunch and plenty of snacks and water, as your options are limited and unpredictable.
You’ll start at the Whitesands Beach House Cafe; however, it opens at 10:30, and we’d recommend starting the hike before this. The only other place where you might be able to get something before Porthgain is Abereiddy Bay, where there’s sometimes a seasonal food truck. Online it says it’s open during peak summer; however, we were there then and it was closed.
When is the best time for hiking in Pembrokeshire?
The best time for hiking in Pembrokeshire is late spring to early autumn for the weather. If you can avoid the school summer holidays from mid-July until the start of September, then do so as places will be a lot busier and prices are hiked.
Where should I stay in Pembrokeshire?
If you’re going to base where you stay on this walk, which would be the easiest thing to do, then stay in St Davids. You won’t need to drive anywhere, and you can take one bus to the start of the hike and one back from the end, nice and simple.
St Davids is also a lovely little city that’s more like a village. There are tons of cosy pubs, sun-soaked beer gardens, cute shops and a local market on Thursdays. It’s also a great location to explore Pembrokeshire in general.
If camping’s your thing, we camped at Hendre Eynon Campsite, which was lovely and clean and only a 5-minute drive from St Davids.
If camping is absolutely not your thing, then some of the best accommodation options in St Davids are:
- Luxury: Twr Y Felin Hotel – a gorgeous property in a former historic windmill. It’s adults only and has a spa – perfect after a long walk along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
- Mid-range: Crug Glas Country House – a charming, historic hotel with a lush garden and sun terrace.
- Budget: The Waterings – lovely outdoor garden, family rooms and a great location in the centre of town.
We hope you’ve found this guide to the Whitesands to Porthgain Walk helpful. It’s honestly one of the best hikes in Pembrokeshire and takes in some of the incredibly diverse landscapes across the region.
If you have any questions or want to get in touch, leave us a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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Check out our other Pembrokeshire guides below for the best things to do, a 3-day itinerary and a hiking guide to the Stackpole Wildlife Walk.
